Just Dandy

 

For anyone that thinks the good times are over once winter hits (culinarily speaking, that is), I have proof positive that you can turn almost any of your favorite warm weather dishes into bright and impressive winter dishes. And even better, they're not just place holders to get you through the winter months--they're actually tasty enough to entertain with. For many, nothing says spring like a tart or quiche that's resplendent with the lush green veggies of spring (this particular example comes to mind). But the truth is that dishes like tarts and quiche are the perfect canvas for showcasing winter's bounty (or lack thereof), because they're light and relatively easy to infuse with flavor. You can go the hearty route, throwing in everything from squash or pumpkin to brussels sprouts, cauliflower or parsnips, or keep it elegant by using mushrooms, leeks or my personal favorite, fall and winter greens. 

I used an asparagus and potato tart recipe from Jamie Oliver as a guide, but diverted from it substantially while making the dish a second, third, and fourth time. I knew the cheddar cheese in the recipe was strong enough to stand up to winter ingredients, so I kept that and actually went so far as to buy an extra sharp white cheddar for some added tang. Where I diverted from the recipe was in the make-up of the batter, which was a little too potato-heavy for me, and almost felt like eating mashed potatoes. To remedy this, I removed an entire potato to let the egginess come through a little bit, making the batter lighter and more quiche-like. Then I swapped out the spring-time asparagus for the more winter appropriate dandelion greens. I like to get them as small and tender as possible for this dish so you don't have to worry about removing the tough stem. For any larger leaves that sneaked in (which I confirmed with a copy editor is in fact the actual past tense of "sneak"), I removed the thick stems and finely chopped the leaves, placing them on the bottom of the tart, along with some of the cheese, which was also folded into the batter mixture.

I did go ahead and keep the phyllo dough crust from the original recipe (despite it making the recipe a bit more complicated) because the crunch goes so well with the soft interior of the tart. Overall it's a really great recipe that can be adapted to incorporate any seasonal veggie. I chose the greens because they didn't need to be pre-cooked or softened, and would completely cook through in the 20 minutes that the tart takes to bake. But in the future I'm already planning on a mushroom and leek tart using the same basic recipe. I'll just have to soften up the mushrooms and leeks in a skillet with oil or butter and carry on the same recipe from there. So if you're feeling a little less bright as the days get darker earlier, give a recipe like this a try and add in a some of your favorite veggies. Hopefully it'll make your dark days feel the littlest bit lighter.

Dandelion Green And Potato Tart

2 small Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 bunch dandelion greens, washed and dried (tough stems removed from larger leaves)
8 ounces phyllo dough (about 12 sheets)
1/2 cup melted butter
1 cup grated cheddar cheese
3 large eggs
1 (8 ounce) container heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cook potatoes in salted, boiling water until tender, about 15-20 minutes. 

2. Meanwhile, carefully layer the sheets of phyllo pastry into an ovenproof dish, brushing each with butter as you go, and letting about 1 inch hang over the side of the dish. Try to get at least 3 layers of pastry, but the more you do the more crispy crust you'll have. Put a clean, damp kitchen towel or paper towel over the top of the pastry covered dish and set aside.


3. When the potatoes are done, drain and mash them with half of the cheese. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, heavy cream, remaining cheese, nutmeg, black pepper and salt. Combine the potatoes and the eggs mixture.


4. Add the chopped dandelion greens to the pastry covered baking dish so they are evenly spread out. Pour the batter into the dish, and top with 5 or six small, tender dandelion greens (as shown above). 

5. Tuck edges of pastry into the dish. Bake for 15-20 minutes until set and slightly wiggly in the center. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before serving. Enjoy!


-Laura

Thanksgiving Scramble

This weekend I bought my very first Thanksgiving turkey. Tonight, for the very first time I'll brine a turkey, and tomorrow, for the first time ever, I'll cook one. These are a lot of firsts for one week, not to mention that there will also be a first ever meeting of the in-laws over Thanksgiving dinner. Needless to say these are quite a few firsts, but of course I am most frightened by the prospect of completely ruining Thanksgiving for everyone by making a terrible turkey. Even though it's a daunting task I think that I'm finally ready. It's been requested by several parties that I keep the side dishes simple and store bought because that's what they were used to in their homes. And even though a small part of me died as I pulled 4 cans of cranberry jelly from the supermarket shelf and into my cart, I must say that I'm also a bit relieved. After all, with the pressure of executing a half dozen new recipes off the table, I can focus on perfecting my turkey. This way, the corn will be a cinch, my mother will be masterfully making the green beans Spanish style, the sweet potatoes need only be roasted, and the mashed potatoes (my specialty) will be a breeze. I may spill a tear or two over the Stove Top stuffing and cans of jellied cranberry, but in the end I'll be a less frazzled host that gives everyone what they want.

One thing that I thankfully will NOT need to do is bake. I've taken the advice of the many magazines I've worked for (and the other dozen or so that I read) and for once not rebuffed the offers of my guests to bring a dish. Since the sides will all be really simple and no trouble to complete while the turkey (hopefully!) roasts to perfection, I asked for guests to bring the dessert of their choice. This way I won't have to fret about heating or baking anything in the oven but the turkey, and I won't be adding any pressure to an already busy day by baking. But, for those of you that may need a last minute dessert to bring to dinner, here's what I would have done if I needed one: a light and slightly tart cranberry galette. All you need is a bag of thawed frozen cranberries and your favorite pie crust, rolled out (not too thin) to about a 12-inch diameter. Other than cutting and macerating the cranberries your work is pretty much done. See below for the recipe and I'll report back next week with tales of turkey brining and Thanksgiving meals. In the meantime, have a happy and delicious holiday!

Cranberry Tart

1 14 oz bag frozen cranberries, thawed and halved
1 pie crust, fresh or store bought
2 Tbsp grape, plum or strawberry jam (or your favorite flavor)
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
1 egg, lightly beaten (for egg wash)

1. Combine halved cranberries and 1 cup of sugar in a bowl until thoroughly combined. Cover with cling wrap and place in the refrigerator anywhere from 2 hours to overnight (the longer the better).

2. Preheat over to 350 F degrees. Roll out pie crust to a 12-inch diameter, making sure it's not too thin (you don't want the liquid the leak through when it melts). Place crust on an oiled or buttered baking sheet. Carefully spread the jam over the pie crust, leaving a 1-inch border from the edge. Top jam with the macerated strawberries and fold the edges of the pie crust over (I use a pinch method so it looks neater).

3. Brush the crust with the egg wash and sprinkle sugar onto crust. Bake tart in the oven until crust is golden brown and crispy, 25-30 minutes.

Enjoy!

Tarting It Up

As I've mentioned before, pastry is not my forte. I generally avoid baking, anything involving the words dough or batter, and I can, on very rare occasions, be seen getting enthusiastic about sweets--usually donuts and the occasional pie. So it may seem odd that I was so strongly drawn to a recipe that involved a pie crust and baking. And while I won't say it wasn't without it's petty annoyances (did I mention I don't even own a rolling pin?), the true minimal effort of this recipe was well worth it for the results. After all, who doesn't want to walk through the door after a long day to the smell of a tart in the oven? I have to admit I thoroughly enjoyed flipping channels and scanning a few magazines while the smell of a lightly browning pie crust and slowly melting cheese wafted through the air. It was such a pleasant and unfamiliar smell in my home--which is generally peppered with the aromas of paprika, bacon and garlic--that I almost forgot they were my doing.

While basking in the scents of traditional home cookery was great, there was a supermarket shortcut involved that explains the recipe's appeal. It made use of frozen pie crust, which much like frozen puff pastry, can be an excellent shortcut for an impressive meal. While homemade pie crust isn't nearly as difficult or as involved as making puff pastry from scratch, I do think it's worth using as a time saver for both quick dinners and entertaining. There's nothing worse than entertaining and spending all your time in the kitchen. By making a tart with store bought pie crust you're saving wildly on time so you'll be composed and sweat-free by the time your guests arrive to a calm house filled to the brim with the scent of baking. Some people think of it as cheating, and that's fine, because it's what you put into the tart that counts, and I think seasonal veggies and delicious cheeses more than make up for one supermarket purchase. After all, as much as I preach about organic vegetables and using great ingredients, I do believe the secret to pretty much everything is moderation. Despite what we know about how bad canned foods can be for you, I also think if you're using one or two cans of rinsed beans every few weeks you're probably okay--however, if you're popping open a Chef Boyardee or Hormel chili every night, you might want to check out this article and rethink it.

But on to the good stuff. Other than some issues with rolling out the dough (what with using a wine bottle and all), the prep was a breeze. The zucchini chops up quickly, and the potatoes slice pretty fast as well (if you're not so good with a knife you can use a mandolin or the slicing attachment on your food processor). After quickly sauteing everything in a large pan you just toss in the cheese and herbs and fill the crust with the mixture. I added in a few dollops of ricotta (not in the original recipe) for color and flavor, since I'm a sucker for any kind of white pizza or gooey tart. All that was left was to bake, which took about and hour. Other than periodically checking in to make sure the crust wasn't burning, I pretty much sat back and relaxed. It even made my day when a friend stopped by and commented on how great dinner smelled. So if you want a quick meal that will impress anyone, give this one a go. It makes use of smart shortcuts and fresh ingredients for a dish that I can say with certainty won't disappoint. And you could easily make multiples (I made 2) if you happen to be entertaining.

Potato, Leak and Feta Tart
adapted from Real Simple

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 leeks (white and light green parts), cut into half-moons
2 small zucchini, cut into half-moons
kosher salt and black pepper
1/2 cup crumbled feta (about 2 ounces)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 Red Bliss potatoes (8 ounces), thinly sliced
1 store-bought 9-inch pie crust
4-5 tablespoons ricotta

1. Heat oven to 375º F. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks, zucchini,1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the feta and dill. Add the potatoes and toss to combine.

2. On a piece of parchment paper, roll the pie crust to a 12-inch diameter. Slide the paper onto a baking sheet. Spoon the potato mixture onto the pie crust, leaving a 2-inch border. Fold the edge of the pie crust over the edge of the potato mixture. Dollop the top with a few tablespoons of ricotta cheese. Bake (covering with foil if the crust gets too dark) until the pie crust is golden brown and the potatoes are tender, 50 to 60 minutes.

-Laura