A Kernel of Truth

One of the best things about late summer (aside from the slowly subsiding humidity) is what's available at the farmers market. Tomatoes are at their peak, peppers and chilies come in all shapes, colors, and sizes, and juicy peaches and stone fruits are everywhere. But best of all, mountains of corn—white, yellow and bi-color—bookend most of the market stalls. The sound of shoppers undressing cobs by sharply removing their husks can often be heard from across the street, and making your way through the crowd to the front of the line becomes a contact sport.

Needless to say, I've found myself among the excitable throngs of folks tearing away at corn on more than one occasion, and—I'm embarrassed to admit—with equal tenacity. The difference between myself and many of my fellow corn enthusiasts is what we do with our corn once we've procured it. Lacking a proper grill and being too much of a weenie to try smoking indoors (but I'm working on it), I've discovered the next best thing: roasting corn off the cob. It's easy, it's fast, it's versatile, and best of all, it comes with easy clean up.

Simply cut all of the kernels off the cob into a large bowl with a paring knife (it's the least messy way to do this). Toss the corn kernels with a little extra virgin olive oil and the seasonings of your choice (I like salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne and cumin), and spread out onto a foil-lined baking sheet. Pop the whole thing into a 350 degree oven and roast for 15-20 minutes until golden brown and charred on the ends. That's it. Use it in pasta dishes (see one pasta salad example here), as a stand alone side-dish, or my favorite, as the base for a soup. Because you've already seasoned your corn, all that's left to do is blend it with chicken or vegetable stock. If you know you'll be making soup ahead of time, throw an onion and a few garlic cloves into the oven with the corn for extra flavor. Top with a few reserved corn kernels, a spoonful of sour cream, and a sprinkle of your favorite fresh herb. A little lime on the side caps off a perfectly light and sweet late summer dinner. 

Roasted Corn Soup 

6 corn cobs, husked, kernels removed and reserved
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
3 garlic cloves (skins left on)
1½ Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
¼ tsp ground cumin
pinch of cayenne pepper
3-4 cups low sodium chicken or vegetable stock
salt
pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Place corn kernels, olive oil, onion, garlic, olive oil, cumin and cayenne in a large bowl and toss to combine. Spread mixture out onto a foil lined baking sheet or roasting pan (this will make clean-up easier) and bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until kernels are slightly browned on the edges.

2. Reserve ½ cup worth of the roasted corn for garnish and place the rest of the roasted mixture into a blender (reserve the garlic), or if using a hand blender, add the mixture to a pot. Squeeze the garlic out of its skin and into the mixture and discard papery skin.

3. Add enough stock to the mixture to cover, then blend to combine. Continue adding stock until your desired consistency is reached. Strain into a pot and reheat, or serve cold, topped with the reserved corn, sour cream, and cilantro. Enjoy!

-Laura

God Bless New Jersey

That's right, I said it. God bless New Jersey. For many—myself included—the myth of New Jersey has long meant visions of a robust, mafia-driven economy, epic tales of partying at the shore, and questions about the curious odor that seems to permanently hang over the city of Newark. But as it turns out, they don't call New Jersey the Garden State for nothing. New Jersey produces some of the country's best fruits and vegetables, including outstanding tomatoes, super delicious, deep red strawberries, and without question, the best sweet corn in the United States (sorry, Iowa).

For us New York City dwellers, the farms of New Jersey are actually closer than most of those in our home state, and have the distinct advantage of being further south, meaning that they're always the first to have whatever is in season. Few other farms advertise their state of origin as prominently as those from New Jersey do, because savvy farmers market shoppers know that the produce from New Jersey is where the best flavors can be found. Lately I've been stocking up on Jersey corn, devilishly sweet, amber-hued sungold tomatoes, and all manner of summer squash.

With ingredients so delicious, I try really hard to do as little to them as possible. The pasta salad pictured above could just as easily be a hot pasta dish, but I love the idea of a refreshing pasta salad where the corn is nice and charred, but the tomatoes are still plump and juicy. A handful of julienned herbs from my tiny balcony herb garden (sorry, New Jersey) enhance the freshness of the dish and add an unbelievable fragrance. I very much enjoyed my plateful of New Jersey ingredients, and you will to. So the next time you're passing through the Garden State, don't snub your nose. Unless, of course, you're anywhere near Newark.

Penne with Sungold Tomatoes and Charred Corn

1 lb penne pasta (I used whole wheat)

1 pint sungold tomatoes, halved

3 ears of corn, husked, kernels cut off the cob
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp smoked paprika

5 basil leaves, julienned

5 mint leaves, julienned

1/2 cup smoked cheddar (or your favorite smoked cheese), cubed

1 garlic clove, finely minced or grated

Extra virgin olive oil

Red wine vinegar

Salt

Pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Toss the corn with 2 teaspoons of olive oil, cumin, paprika, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread kernels out evenly on a baking tray and place in the oven. Roast until kernels are browned and slightly crispy, 15-20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season water generously with salt and add the penne. Cook until al dente, then drain and remove to a bowl. 

3. Toss cooked penne with 1 teaspoon of olive oil to keep from sticking together. Add tomatoes, corn, cheese, garlic and herbs to the penne and toss to combine. Add 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine and serve warm or slightly chilled. Enjoy!

-Laura   

The Dog Days Are Over

Change is in the air here in New York, and as the breezes turn slightly brisk it's hard to imagine that just last week we were suffering under the brutal rays of late summer sun. The next two months make for happy cooking as the last of summer's bounty meets the goodness of fall. It's one of my favorite times of year to cook, in fact as far as overlapping seasons go, summer's slow creep into fall can't be beat. Sweet corn, zucchini and eggplant are still an overwhelming force at the farmers market, while apples, pears, and a variety of squashes roll in. Bridging the gap between seasons is never easier than with the variety of fruits and veggies available now, and my favorite way to do it is by making soup.

As much as I love squash, I've always felt that it's best in soup. And with the lingering presence of summer squash, plus the recently emerged hard squashes like delicata, acorn and spaghetti, there's no better time to make a great squash bisque that utilizes the best of both seasons. This isn't a roasted squash soup, so there's no need to turn on the oven. I just peeled and sauteed everything (including a large acorn squash) on my stove top and let it simmer away in a golden broth until all of the squash was soft and pliable. A little bit of research led me to the common combination of squash and corn in Mexican cooking, so I was able to bring a little more summer sunshine to the dish. While waiting for the squash mixture to cool slightly before blending it (I've learned the hard way NOT to skip this step) I decided to take the Mexican theme a bit further. I sauteed up a little bit of corn with a touch of olive oil and lots of salt and pepper, then wiped out the pan and dry roasted a few pepitas (shelled pumpkin seeds) for a nutty touch and a bit of crunch.

I was really happy with the end result, which was a nice velvety and naturally creamy soup that was both slightly sweet and salty, with a great mouthfeel from the pop of the plump corn and the salty crunch of the pepitas (which are also blended in the soup). A dollop of sour cream on top added some decadence without being overly rich. It's important to strain a soup like this, because squash can often be made up of tough fibers that do not blend completely, and the pepitas can also often not blend completely because they're so small to begin with, giving the soup a grainy quality. A quick pass through a strainer or sieve will really make it a restaurant quality soup, so try to resist the temptation to skip this step. You can even strain it straight into your serving bowls so it doesn't feel like an extra step, or get another dish dirty. I know I'll be making this soup again, and adding a little extra heat as the colder weather draws near (chilies and curry are two options I already know I'll be toying with!). Give it a try and experiment with your own favorite flavors. 

Squash and Corn Bisque with Toasted Pepitas 
1 acorn or butternut squash, peeled and roughly cubed
1 ear of corn, husked, kernels removed and cob reserved
1 small onion, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
2-3 cups vegetable or chicken stock
3/4 cup shelled pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
extra virgin olive oil
salt
black pepper

1. Sweat onions and garlic in olive oil over medium-low heat until just starting to soften (you don't want caramelization, just softening). Add coriander, cumin and paprika and cook, stirring constantly for 20 seconds. Add squash and cook for a minute longer. Add enough stock to just cover mixture, along with reserved corn cob and bring to a simmer. Cook until squash is tender and cooked through. Allow to cool.

2. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a non-stick skillet. Add corn and saute until slightly softened, but still firm and fresh. Remove to a plate or bowl and set aside. Carefully wipe out the skillet with a paper towel and reheat on low. Add pepitas and cook, tossing constantly until browned and crunchy, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.

3. Once cooled, discard the corn cob and add the squash mixture to a blender or food processor, along with all but 1/3 cup of the pepitas. Blend, adding more stock or water as necessary to thin mixture if it's too thick. Strain soup back into the pot, add corn (reserving a few tablespoons for garnish) and reheat. Serve topped with sour cream and remaining corn and pepitas. Enjoy!

-Laura 

Some Like It (Extra) Hot

A lot of people cringe and crinkle their nose at the sight of green tomatoes. The truth is they're not very common outside of the American south, and most people I know have never even tried them, so it's no wonder people are perplexed at the sight of them. I can't tell you how many times a summer I'm asked by fellow farmer's market dwellers how the heck I plan on using the green tomatoes I'm buying. While sometimes the answer is in pastas, sauces or salsas, I can more often than not be found frying them in the classic southern manner. While not a true southerner myself, I grew up far enough south that they popped up on menus from time to time, always wrapped in a crunchy cornmeal blanket, seasoned to perfection with salt, heaps of black pepper and a pinch of cayenne.

While I have fond memories of that classic version, these days I find myself growing increasingly attracted to spice. I'm not a full blown chili-head yet—proper balance and seasoning are still paramount in the food I find enjoyable—but I must admit that as my palate has expanded over the years, I've found added heat to be a compelling component of full-flavored food. That's partly why, as I've made fried green tomatoes over the years, they've become increasingly spicy with each batch. It started with a pinch of cayenne, then the addition of spicy smoked paprika, and finally it led to a topping of sriracha, that perfectly balanced tomato based Asian hot sauce. I knew I could crank up the heat because of what was inside—tart, firm tomatoes with a substantial bit of acidity—the perfect foil for anything spicy.

The only thing missing was sweetness, which came in the form of a raw corn relish. It's been a great year for corn here in the Northeast, with truly sweet and juicy kernels that barely need any doctoring. I cut my corn off the cob and tossed it with extra virgin olive oil, lime juice and honey, along with some finely chopped cilantro. I threw in some super sweet orange cherry tomatoes and it was done—no real cooking necessary. Then I served each plate with a stack of fried tomatoes, a swirl of sriracha and a big pile of the corn relish. It's a great summertime appetizer and a great dinner for one. The relish leftovers would even make a great sauteed side dish (that that I would know, because I took to mine with a spoon and finished the would-be leftovers immediately).

Spicy Fried Green Tomatoes With Fresh Corn Relish

Tomatoes

3 large green tomatoes, sliced into 1/4 inch thick slices

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon spicy smoked paprika

1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons water

canola, vegetable or your favorite light oil

Sriracha

salt

Corn Relish

2 corn cobs, husked, kernels cut off of cob

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

juice of half a lime

1/2 teaspoon honey

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

ten cherry tomatoes, halved

salt

black pepper

1. Combine the corn kernels, extra virgin olive oil, lime juice, honey, cilantro and tomatoes in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste and stir well to combine. Set aside.

2. Season green tomatoes with salt and set aside. Combine cornmeal, flour, cayenne, paprika and black pepper in a large, deep bowl. Whisk eggs and water together in another bowl. Dredge each green tomato slice in egg, then in the cornmeal mixture.

3. Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a non-stick skillet. Add green tomatoes and cook until golden and crisp on both sides. Remove tomatoes to a paper towel lined plate to drain. Serve tomatoes stacked two at a time and top with sriracha and a spoonful of the corn relish. Enjoy!

-Laura

Call of the Corn

There are some foods that cannot be disassociated with certain seasons and certain events. Corn on the cob, for example, will forever remind me of summer. Growing up in Maryland, cookouts meant more than burgers and hot dogs. Living 15 minutes from the nation's capital--home of the power steak, where deals are signed at Sam & Harry's over a couple of Porterhouse--inevitably led to firing up Fred Flintstone sized t-bones at home as well. Side dishes usually included some kind of typical potato or macaroni salad, which seemed exotic and very American to my Spanish family. But nothing was more reminiscent of summer and the area in which I grew up than a crabfest.

When I was a kid and all through my teenage years, you couldn't drive 5 miles in my town without hitting a crabshack, which was often the ground floor of an old single family home. Someone (usually the owner of the house) would sell you perfectly cooked and Old Bay seasoned Maryland blue crabs by the bagful. The beautifully crimson and piping hot crabs were stuffed into brown paper grocery bags and usually topped with a handful of corn on the cob, a special side dish treat that didn't come with the bushels of live crabs down at the wharf. By the time we'd get home, each corn cob was smothered with butter and flecked with spicy Old Bay seasoning. Corn on the cob will forever be a summertime treat that reminds me of every crab cookout we had (which was, of course, always preceded with Old Bay spiced shrimp).

So it is that every year I force myself to wait until summer to sample any corn on the cob. I try to show some restraint in restaurants as well, but that has more to do with unruly kernels getting stuck in my teeth. Since we've hit June (which happens to be prime crab season) and my mom is away for the week, I decided to finally indulge and make some corn, right on the cob. Last summer I became obsessed with Mexican style corn, where in addition to slathering the cob with butter, it's topped with queso blanco (a soft white cheese) and sprinkled with cayenne pepper and other spices. I've had difficulty finding queso blanco recently, so I decided to substitute some ricotta salata, and it tasted great. The saltiness of the cheese is a lovely contrast to the sweet, plump corn kernels, and the cayenne and chili powder I used brought a nice bit of smoke and heat to the party. I'd definitely recommend shredding the cheese and topping the corn while it's still piping hot. Eating this dish is a messy sport, but it's well worth it. Here's how to do it:

Spicy Corn On The Cob With Ricotta Salata

4 cobs of corn
1/2 cup ricotta salata, shredded
4 Tbsp butter
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp chili powder

1. Cook corn in a large pot of salted boiling water until cooked through, or grill until done.

2. While still piping hot, slather corn with butter and top with cheese. Top with spices and serve while hot. Enjoy!

-Laura

Corn Cravings

It is really difficult for me to cook wonderful, fresh, seasonal food during the late winter/early spring time of year. This seasonal wasteland has quickly become tiresome after a bevy of winter soups, endless root veggies, and broccoli/cauliflower overload. Although many of my favorite fish are in season during this period, I find that the vegetables are just not some of my favorites, and don't easily fit into my cooking style. Despite my many attempts to incorporate new and seasonal foods into my cooking repertoire, I can't help but feel pangs of desire for the fruits and veggies of the upcoming seasons. The vegetables of April are so very close, just a few weeks away, but this week I just couldn't wait for fresh corn, which peaks next month and also in June. So, like any good addict, I fell off the seasonal wagon and took to my pantry, where I always keep a stash of canned corn for just such an emergency.

Since I couldn't bring my cheap self to buy corn on the cob out of season (when it's most expensive) I decided to go with a delicious and creamy corn soup. It's the kind of soup that doesn't need a lot to make it tasty, and I've actually made it in the past with just sautéed and pureed corn (which is especially good during the summer), topped with avocado and crispy tortillas. Since I was making this soup during the tail end of winter, I thought I'd make it creamy with some milk and a bit of sour cream mixed in just towards the end. I also sautéed the corn with a bit of onion, garlic and spring onion, adding a pinch of cumin for smokiness, and a tiny bit of cayenne pepper for some kick. The result was delicious, and definitely scratched my springtime vegetable itch. The soup is a vibrant, sunshine yellow and is made even more beautiful with a dollop of sour cream, a few crispy bits of bacon, and a few bright green spring onion rods. I promise to bring you some fresh corn recipes once the season gets here, including Mexican corn on the cob and a fresh corn soup. In the meantime, here's a creamy (canned or frozen) corn soup to tide you over:

Creamy Corn Soup

2 small cans of corn
1/2 an onion, chopped
2 scallions, 1 chopped, 1 cut into long strips for garnish
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
1/4 tsp cumin
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
1 1/2 cups chicken stock (or non-tomato based vegetable stock)
1/2 cup milk
1 Tbsp sour cream
2 strips of crispy bacon, chopped
salt
pepper

1. Sauté corn, onions, chopped spring onion, garlic, cumin and cayenne until onions soften, about 7 minutes.

2. Add corn mixture to blender along with stock and milk and blend until smooth (add more liquid if mixture is too thick). Return mixture to pot and bring back to a boil. Stir in sour cream and season soup with salt and pepper.

3. Plate soup and top with a dollop of sour cream, bacon and remaining spring onion. Enjoy!

-Laura