Holy Mackerel

For all my complaining about the lack of fresh ingredients in winter, you'd think that by the time summer rolled around I'd be cooking incessantly. But the great irony of our warmest season is that the overwhelmingly abundant produce is already so perfect that I find myself unwilling to do much to it at all. The tomatoes that I've spent nine months pining for typically prove to be well worth the wait—sweet and juicy with just a hint of that signature tomato acidity. Why mar their already candy-like flavor with heat when popping them straight into your mouth is so easy and free of dirty dishes?

My answer to this laziness is to put enough great summer ingredients together so that it looks like you've cooked-up something delicious, when you've only just assembled a bunch of perfectly delicious stuff. But if you're looking to easily (and convincingly) make a full meal out of naked summer produce, there's no better foil than bluefish. It's flavorful, abundant (cheap!), and quick-cooking. Spanish mackerel is a personal favorite, with just a few easily picked-out pin bones running down the center of each filet, and beautiful bright yellow spots down the middle. I like a simple pan-to-oven preparation (a restaurant trick that works just as well in every home) that makes for crispy skin, moist meat, and takes less than 10 minutes. 

As for those barely-touched summer veggies, I like to go southern European-style with a simple tomato-herb salad and roasted baby summer squash (no chopping necessary). For the salad I used sungold tomatoes, the sweetest variety of cherry tomatoes (and my all-time favorite bit of summer produce), along with finely sliced basil and sorrel, a healthy squeeze of lime juice and plenty of salt and pepper. The squash couldn't be easier, tossed whole with extra virgin olive oil, basil, salt and pepper, then roasted in the oven. What's great about this dish is that everything comes together while another element cooks. While the squash roasts, the salad comes together in a flash and the fish is pan roasted (skin side only) for less than two minutes and into the oven for about five. For a half an hour of cooking and prep you get a simple and fresh dinner. Minimal effort, maximum flavor and dinner is...done.

Spanish Mackerel with Tomato-Herb Salad and Roasted Courgettes

serves 2

14 small courgettes

1 pint sungold cherry tomatoes, halved

1 cup basil, divided, finely sliced 

3 sorrel leaves, finely sliced

2 Spanish mackerel filets, pin bones removed

1 lime

extra virgin olive oil

salt 

pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Season the halved tomatoes with salt and pepper and set aside.

2. Finely chop half of the sliced basil and place in a large bowl with the courgettes, extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat. Spread the courgettes out onto an aluminum foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes or until tender.

2. Meanwhile, add 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, juice of half the lime, sorrel and remaining sliced basil to the tomatoes. Toss to coat. Set aside.

3. When there's about 10 minutes left for the courgettes, heat a teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil in an oven safe, non-stick skillet, over medium heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides and add to the skillet, skin side down. Cook until skin is just starting to crisp and brown around the edges, about 1 minute. Flip fish over and transfer skillet to oven. Cook another 5-6 minutes or until fish is just white and opaque. Serve over the courgettes with tomato salad on the side. Enjoy!

-Laura

Chicken with 40 Cloves

Well, it took long enough, but much like the cherry blossoms in my beloved hometown, the farmers market is finally beginning to bloom. It may still appear to be a heap of potatoes and onions to some, but to me it's the personification of Sunday supper. There are few things I enjoy more than roasting the perfect chicken and potatoes, kicking my heels up and reading the Sunday paper while dinner slowly browns and boils—unmanned— in a toasty oven. 

But, opportunities to luxuriate are few and far between these days, so over the last several months I've turned to pan roasts as a speedy comfort food alternative. You're still cooking an entire chicken on the bone, but cutting it up cuts cooking time by more than half. One of my favorite roast chicken dinners is a classic French recipe called Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic, and it makes the transition from whole chicken to pan roast beautifully. Sure, forty garlic cloves sounds like a lot, but when left unpeeled their skins act like papery cocoons, transforming the pungent cloves from sharp and spicy to sweet and delicate.

Spring is the perfect time to make this dish because you can use young (also known as green) garlic, which is basically garlic that hasn't yet fully matured and separated into cloves. It doesn't have quite as much bite as everyday garlic and it's all over the farmers market right now. Also all over the market? New potatoes, spring onions, bulb onions on the stalk, and numerous other aromatics that would go perfectly in a pan roast. I used all of the above and threw in a few Meyer lemons that had seen better days but were still plenty juicy, along with some of the Meyer lemon zest (on the chicken skin) and some smoky/spicy ground Aleppo pepper. 

But no matter how you roast it, just toss some chicken and garlic in a casserole dish with a few potatoes and stick in all in a hot oven. Thirty-five minutes later I guarantee you'll have a delicious and comforting meal, and no one ever needs to know how (not) long it took you to make, or how much garlic you used.

Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic (Pan Roast Edition)

1 chicken cut into 8 pieces or 4 chicken legs separated into thighs and drumsticks
1 Tablespoon Aleppo pepper (or 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flake)
40 garlic cloves, skins left on
15-20 new potatoes (larger ones halved)
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 Meyer lemons (regular lemons will also work), cut into 6 wedges
2 onions, quartered
salt
ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. Season chicken on both sides with salt and Aleppo pepper. Place chicken in a large roasting pan or oven-safe casserole dish and set aside. 

2. Toss the new potatoes, onion quarters, garlic cloves and lemon wedges in a large bowl with the extra virgin olive oil, salt and black pepper and scatter in the roasting pan with the chicken. Roast for 35-40 minutes in the oven or until chicken is cooked through and potatoes are tender. Enjoy!

-Laura     

Protean Protein

Winter may be over, but I struggled with seasonality quite a bit this past season. Long-time readers may recall that I usually spend this time of year complaining about how I'm totally over winter vegetables and how I couldn't possibly think of another way to use them. But this year something strange happened: there were no winter vegetables! There's been a rabid heatwave over the last several months here on the east coast, whih led to a lack of winter produce. Winter vegetables typically get their distinctively sweet flavors by growing in frigid temperatures, which in turn develop their natural sugars. Carrots, beets, celeriac, winter squash, parsnips, and black kale are among some of my favorite winter veggies not to be found at the farmers market this winter. How did I cope without winter veggies? By eating lots of meat.

Without seasonal veggies as a default side dish to lighten my many meats, I began to play with alternatives. After tearing through pantry staples and the usual starchy suspects (rice, mashed potatoes, pasta, orzo, couscous) I turned to the much lauded and much healthier "ancient grains". The category (actually a misnomer since many are in fact not actual grains) includes kamut, barley, oats, millet, farro and one of my favorites, quinoa. What's important about these is that while they're not all necessarily grains, they are indeed ancient, which is to say that they have not been genetically modified in any way since they were first cultivated thousands of years ago. Much of our modern day grains have had their structure (their nutrient balance, essentially) altered over the years for a variety of reasons. What quinoa, for example, can offer is a complete protein profile, that is to say it has a good balance of protein, carbohydrates and fat.

If you're looking to get a variety of nutrients (including iron) or to reign in a portion control issue, quinoa is the perfect foil. Because it has a slightly higher fat content compared to other grains (but is not a fatty food) and because it's so high in protein, eating just a small amount of it will help you feel full, while giving you a day's worth of protein with just a one-cup serving (it's a great choice for vegetarians or for a meatless meal). So whether you eat it alone, mixed with a few vegetables, or as a side dish, you'll end up satisfied while eating less. Nutritional benefits aside, quinoa is also quick cooking (who doesn't love that?) and delicious. I like to cook mine in stock instead of water for a little added flavor, and if I do happen to have vegetables on hand, will fold in some sauteed spinach and thinly sliced leeks (both finally available at the farmers market). Quinoa's great at absorbing flavors, so I love to serve it alongside a roast with plenty of sauce (it's pictured above alongside an oven-roasted chicken leg) or as a salad (unlike other grains it drinks up dressing). This warm recipe has leeks and overwintered spinach, but any of your favorite veggies will work. 

Quinoa with Spinach and Leeks 

1½ cups quinoa 
3 cups low-sodium chicken, vegetable or beef stock
½ tsp kosher salt
4 cups spinach, roughly chopped
2 leeks, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, very finely minced
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1. Combine quinoa, salt, and stock in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Cook 10-12 minutes until all of the liquid has been absorbed and quinoa is tender.

2. Meanwhile, heat garlic, leeks and olive oil over low heat in a large non-stick skillet, about 30 seconds. Add spinach (in batches if necessary) and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until wilted. Fold in cooked quinoa until well combined. Serve and enjoy!


-Laura

Let Them Eat Cakes

Winter is officially upon us here in New York, and although it's not as frigid a winter as usual, the farmers market stalls are just as barren as ever. Gone are the squashes, brussels sprouts and cauliflower of fall and early winter, with only a few rutabaga and the odd collard green or kale bunch in their place. The three month period from the start of the new year through late March can be brutal for a seasonal food enthusiast, and having already tired of root vegetable stew and carrot ginger soup, this is the time when I turn to my pantry for a little support. 

While I've yet to develop an interest in canning or pickling (despite my best efforts), I do believe that our ancestors had it right: preserving food for the winter season is definitely the way to go. Sure, these days we've pretty much added preservatives to, well, everything, even if it doesn't actually need it. But I'm talking about only using the canned and preserved items that line supermarket shelves during a time when using fresh, seasonal products is not an option (at least for those of us in cold climates). And one of my favorite items is canned fish. In fact, you can get wild, organic canned fish for super cheap, and even in BPA-free containers and packages (Whole Foods, Trader Joe's and Fairway are three good sources here in NY; Vital Choice, Wild Planet and Ecofish are three great brands with BPA-free products). 

Canned and packaged fish has come a LONG way from where it was years ago (these are not your grandmother's sardines, trust me). You can get good quality and even boneless fish to use a myriad ways, but my favorite is in a seafood cake. My first attempt at making these several years ago was a disaster. The canned salmon was awful: mealy and disintegrated with a terribly fishy odor, not to mention a salty and unpalatable flavor. I blamed myself and my recipe but it turns out that canned salmon was just not a usable product back then. But after hearing a few good reviews from friends and colleagues recently I decided to try again. I was shocked to find that the salmon was clean and virtually odorless with no added salt. It was in nice large flakes with a good firm texture. 

This time the salmon cakes were great. Good flavor, made with simple pantry staples and showing no signs that they contained a canned product. I served mine over some whole wheat lemon orzo and with a dollop of homemade remoulade, but they'd be just as good served over a salad or as an appetizer (teeny tiny dip-able salmon cakes!). If you've ever shied away from this type of product, it's a good time to explore. From canned fish to vacuum sealed cod fillets, there's a whole world of new options (and most of them are healthy and affordable, to boot) to play with. Just make sure to do a little research and read a few labels, and your winter can be just as full of flavor and wonderful meals as any other season. Well, almost. 

Salmon Cakes 

14 oz salmon (canned or fresh)
1 Tbsp mayonnaise
1 large egg, lightly beaten
¾ cup breadcrumbs, divided
1 small carrot, very finely diced
1 rib of celery, very finely diced
1 medium shallot, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp finely chopped parsley
extra virgin olive oil
salt
pepper

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add the finely diced carrot, celery, garlic, and shallot and cook over medium-low heat until softened. Remove mixture to a large bowl, adding salmon, mayonnaise, egg, parsley, ¼ cup of the breadcrumbs and salt and pepper to taste. Carefully combine until well incorporated. 

2. Divide the mixture into four even portions (or more for smaller cakes) and form into four 1-inch thick cakes. Spread the remaining breadcrumbs out onto a plate and lightly coat each cake. 

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat in the same non-stick skillet used for the aromatics. Cook the cakes until browned on both sides, about 3 minutes, cooking in batches if necessary to not crowd the pan. Serve with tartar sauce and lemon wedges, or over a salad of spring greens. Enjoy!

-Laura

Restoration Hardware

I don't know about you, but my naughty food consumption goes through the roof during the holidays. Going as far back as Halloween (yup, that's where it all really begins) there's trick-or-treating loot in the office, then Thanksgiving feasting at home (and a plethora of leftovers), only to be overwhelmed by the goodies of Christmas dinner, not to mention the inevitable holiday cookies lurking around every corner. By the time the new year rolls around I've had just about enough of roasts, toasts and all manner of sweets. I'm not big on resolutions, but somewhere along the way my brain seems to naturally crave some sort of post-holiday detox. It's not always easy to make something healthful also feel satisfying and delicious, but I find that there are a few ingredients that can help fool the inner health critic in many of us, and those are usually a good place to start.

For me, avocado is a pretty standard food booby-trap—if it's got avocado on it, I want to eat it. The same goes for rice and shrimp and anything spicy or crunchy. Taking a step back and looking at how I could use some of these favorites to my advantage in making a healthier meal, I remembered ajiaco, a Colombian chicken soup made with a rich broth, three varieties of potatoes, cilantro and fresh corn. It's topped with avocado and sour cream, and one of my all-time favorite summer recipes. By replacing the out-of-season corn with brown rice and adding in some protein in the form of shrimp and turkey, it easily became a light winter soup. Topping the soup off with reduced-fat sour cream and luscious avocado, not to mention a generous sprinkle of cilantro gave what was essentially a light dish a decadent and delicious finish.

I admit that I made a few calculated choices in forming this dish so that even though the main components were relatively healthy, they definitely wouldn't taste that way. I started with low-sodium chicken broth but infused it with flavor by poaching the proteins in it. This meant I could avoid using oil (and sauteing altogether), impart flavor into the broth from both the shrimp and the turkey as they slowly poached, and make it nearly a one-pot dish. I also chose to use turkey because it has a stronger, deeper flavor than chicken, making my broth tastier and my stew heartier. I cooked the potatoes right in the broth so that any starch they released during cooking would slightly thicken the soup, giving it added body and infusing the potatoes with a richer flavor than they would get from just being boiled in salted water.

Those are just the tweaks that worked for me, but there are plenty of other directions to take this soup that are just as satisfying and still healthy. If you're a chili head, add some jalapeños or serranos for heat. Want a richer broth? Go Asian style and toss a little ginger, scallion and soy sauce into the broth and take out the potatoes completely. Maybe add some tofu instead (marinate it beforehand for even more flavor). Or, go Italian with a small can of diced tomatoes, cannellini beans and a pinch of dried oregano. The possibilities are endless, but I know that in my case, I'll be making versions of this soup over and over again, especially as cold and flu season approaches. I've already got a mean case of the sniffles, which means another version of this recipe is just around the corner.

Turkey and Shrimp Ajiaco 

7 cups low-sodium chicken stock
4 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pound boneless, skinless turkey breast, chopped into 1 inch pieces
10-12 large shrimp, peeled and de-veined
2 cups cooked brown rice
1 avocado, peeled and diced
sour cream
cilantro, finely chopped
lime wedges
salt
cracked black pepper

1. Bring chicken stock to a boil in a large soup pot. Add potatoes and cook 10-15 minutes or until completely cooked through but not falling apart. Remove potatoes from broth and set aside.

2. Reduce heat to a light simmer and add turkey to broth. Poach turkey in broth until just barely cooked through, about 3 minutes. Add shrimp to the broth and poach until pink and opaque (keep an eye on them—overcooked shrimp are the worst).

3. Add potatoes back to the pot to reheat. Taste broth for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Divide rice evenly among soup bowls and ladle the soup over it. Top with avocado, sour cream, chopped cilantro and a squeeze of lime. Enjoy!

-Laura

The Rainbow Connection

This is about the time of year when my oven goes into overdrive. As the weather gets colder and I happily bring the oven back into the fold, I sometimes manage to cook an entire meal right in the oven, without ever turning on the stove top. The other day I roasted a whole chicken for an hour and during the last fifteen minutes of cooking chucked a tray of olive oil-coated brussels sprouts onto the top oven rack. It was such a low maintenance meal that I managed to fold laundry, reply to a few emails and watch an episode of How I Met Your Mother before the timer ever went off. 

But not all meals are quite that hands-off, which is why earlier this week I turned back to the oven for a little help. It's no secret that roasting vegetables is the way to go this time of year (unless you own a deep fryer and can make due with all the calories), and I'm a big advocate of roasting…well, just about everything. It uses less oil than frying but still gives you great flavor. And as far as I'm concerned, the more dark and crunchy bits there are, the better, which is why I roast veggies in a super high oven (400-450 degrees). Classically over-cooked vegetables like brussels sprouts, cauliflower and broccoli are especially tasty done this way, the idea being to maximize the color (i.e. flavor) on the outside, while making sure the inside is just barely cooked. 

If you're looking for a super fast dinner that will encourage the kids (and maybe a spouse or two) to eat their veggies, try making rainbow cauliflower. Aside from the common white variety there's purple, yellow and beautiful spiky green romanesco, and they all taste great (and you get a ton of vitamin C, to boot). I like to buy a small head of each and roast them together for a beautiful side dish that goes well with any protein. I served mine with gorgeous seared sea scallops that only took a minute and a half to cook on each side. Altogether the meal was healthy, fast and delicious. At under half an hour to prepare, this meal is a stunner, and helps you catch up on your veggies (just don't tell everyone else at the table). 

Seared Sea Scallops with Roasted Rainbow Cauliflower

1 lb sea scallops

1 tsp smoked paprika, divided

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, divided

3 small heads of cauliflower, cut into florets (assorted colors if possible)

1 Tablespoon vegetable, canola or peanut oil

Extra virgin olive oil

salt

pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Pat scallops dry and set aside on a paper towel lined plate or platter.

2. Toss cauliflower florets with 1/2 teaspoon of the smoked paprika, 1/4 tsp of the cayenne pepper, and extra virgin olive oil to coat (about 1 Tablespoon). Season with salt and pepper. Spread cauliflower onto a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 15 minutes or until nicely browned and just crisp-tender.

3. Brush scallops with oil on one side and season with half of the cumin and half of the remaining paprika and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add scallops seasoned and oiled side down. Brush top side with oil and remaining cumin, paprika and cayenne. Cook on each side until browned and crusted, about one minute per side. 

4. Serve scallops hot and topped with roasted cauliflower and a light drizzle of olive oil. Enjoy!

-Laura

It's In The Bag

I was recently speaking with a friend about cooking and wondered why as a foodie, she didn't cook at home more often. She said that cooking a full meal for one person was just too difficult and time consuming to do, and that spending an hour in the kitchen cooking just for herself seemed like a waste of time. I countered (from previous years of experience) that cooking for one is actually a huge advantage when making a fast and delicious meal, and that I could prove it. And so I set forth to make a complete meal (protein, veggies and a side) with minimal effort and in half an hour.

One of the secrets to making a fast, delicious and healthy meal, regardless of the quantity, is to start with fish or seafood. They're the quickest cooking of all proteins and need very little attention, no matter how you prep them. I like a nice center-cut fillet of halibut because it has very little fat, beautiful flavor, and cooks through in ten minutes. Cod or salmon would work just as well and be slightly more affordable, but shrimp are also a great choice.

Another secret to making a fast meal is to cook it en papillote, which means nothing more than cooking in a parchment or foil packet. There's no need to dirty a pan or end up with a house reeking of fish. Simply heat your oven, toss your fish fillet onto a piece of parchment paper (or foil if you're in a pinch) with salt, pepper and a little olive oil, and fold the edges over to create a nice seal. The fish and anything else you toss in the packet will steam and be ready in less than ten minutes. I like to add two or three types of veggies, whatever is in season and steams nicely. This time of year I'd use cauliflower, leeks, squash, turnips, potatoes, and pretty much any kind of root veggie (I made the dish pictured in this post at the tail-end of summer with leeks, sungold tomatoes and summer squash—yum).

That's a protein and veggie prepped and cooked in about 15 minutes, leaving plenty of time to make a side dish or side salad, which can even be completed while the packets cook away in the oven. Roast another vegetable in the oven, put together a nice salad, or slice up some fruit for dessert. Either way, you can make a beautiful dinner come together in minutes, and best of all, it's easy to multiply for more than one (very impressive for company). When it's ready, just slide your packet onto a plate, cut a cross-shaped slit in the top and rip it open. Eat it right out of the parchment, where the juices and steam will have formed a delicious natural sauce. With all that free time and so few dishes to clean, you'll have to think of a reason not to make this dish, for yourself, or anyone else. 

Halibut En Papillote with Cherry Tomatoes, Zucchini and Leeks 

1 halibut fillet (about 6 oz)
8-10 small cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup zucchini or summer squash, halved and sliced
1 leek, washed, white and light green parts thinly sliced
extra virgin olive oil
salt
black pepper

1. Preheat your oven to 400°F. Toss tomatoes and zucchini in a bowl with salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil to coat. Set aside.

2. Fold a 15-inch long sheet of parchment paper in half so there's a crease in the middle, then open it back up. Place the leeks in the center of the parchment near the crease. Season with salt, pepper and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Season the halibut on both sides with salt and pepper and place it on top of the leeks. Carefully pour the tomato/zucchini mixture over and around the halibut.

3. Fold the empty half of the parchment over the fish. Starting at one of the creased ends, make small overlapping folds until the parchment forms a half-moon shape and is sealed tight (see an illustrated guide from Martha Stewart here for guidance).

4. Place the parchment packet onto a baking tray and bake in the oven for 10 minutes until the parchment is puffed and fish is cooked through. Place the finished packet onto a plate and cut a cross-shaped slit into the center of the packet. Pull back the parchment and serve. Enjoy!

-Laura 

TIP: You can easily make this dish with winter-centric ingredients. Leeks, carrots and cabbage make a great combo, and so do bok choy, mushrooms and cauliflower with soy and a dash of sesame oil. And don't forget about citrus—not only is it in season in the winter, it's also seafood's best friend. And some lemon juice and lemon slices to salmon en papillote, or lemon juice, butter and black pepper to some gorgeous bay scallops for an elegant appetizer.

Pie In the Sky

As many of you may have noticed, I've been gone from the blog for quite some time. The reason? We've moved once again! After a stressful two months of finding out we needed to move ASAP and making it happen, I'm happy to report that I will continue cooking and writing from the Upper East Side of Manhattan, albeit slightly further north (is that East Harlem I see from my window?). And what better way to break in a shiny new kitchen than with a delicious, warm apple pie? 

It is fall, after all, and if you're not a baker by nature, this pie's for you. The filling is simple and fast, and I opted for a deliciously crunchy, sweet and salty crumble topping. I'm personally not a big fan of pastry topping on pie (all that rolling and measuring and crimping, oy!) despite how beautiful a properly made crust can look. I much prefer a crumble-style topping, which aside from being quick-cooking and foolproof, brings an added layer of flavor and crunch.

I wanted to start fall off right with an apple pie, but decided to make use of some beautiful cherries that I bought at the height of their season and froze (for those of you doing the math, that's right, I actually moved them from one apartment to another; I ascribe to a strict "no produce left behind" policy). But if you don't have cherries, cranberries make a fine seasonal substitute. Just add extra sugar to the filling to compensate for their tartness, and go with frozen instead of fresh so you don't have to cook them down beforehand. 

I used a mix of Empires and Jonahgolds for the apples, but any good baking apple works. As for the crumble, I went with a slightly unconventional ingredient, eschewing the traditional flour/butter/nut combo. I used my favorite granola which had oats, almonds, honey and vanilla, and added a nice chunky texture. All I needed to do was cut in the butter, cinnamon and a pinch of salt and it was good to go, no added sugar necessary. So, if you're looking for a new pie to make this fall, or even this Thanksgiving, this is a great option. It's stress free, and since there's a wonderful crunchy topping, you don't even have to feel guilty about buying a pre-made crust!

Apple and Cherry Crumble Pie

For the Filling:

5-6 apples like Jonahgold, Empire or Honeycrisp, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

2 cups cherries, pitted and quartered

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 9-inch pie crust (homemade or store-bought is fine)

2 Tablespoons butter, cut into small cubes

For the Crumble:

1 1/2 cups granola (like Bob's Red Mill Honey Almond Granola)

4 Tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, chilled and cut into small cubes

2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

For the Filling: Preheat oven to 350˚F. In a large bowl, combine all of the filling ingredients except for the butter and crust. Fill the crust with the apple/cherry mixture, careful to keep it as flat as possible. Dot the mixture with butter, then bake, covered loosely with foil, for 30 minutes or until apples have just started to droop and soften.

For the Crumble: While the filling bakes, combine all of the crumble ingredients in a bowl. Kneed them together until butter is well incorporated and even clumps are formed. Refrigerate until the pie filling has finished pre-baking in the oven.

Once the filling has baked, carefully remove it from the oven and top with the crumble. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until the crumble has browned and crisped, then cover with foil and continue baking another 30-35 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow 2-3 hours to cool. Enjoy! 


-Laura

A Kernel of Truth

One of the best things about late summer (aside from the slowly subsiding humidity) is what's available at the farmers market. Tomatoes are at their peak, peppers and chilies come in all shapes, colors, and sizes, and juicy peaches and stone fruits are everywhere. But best of all, mountains of corn—white, yellow and bi-color—bookend most of the market stalls. The sound of shoppers undressing cobs by sharply removing their husks can often be heard from across the street, and making your way through the crowd to the front of the line becomes a contact sport.

Needless to say, I've found myself among the excitable throngs of folks tearing away at corn on more than one occasion, and—I'm embarrassed to admit—with equal tenacity. The difference between myself and many of my fellow corn enthusiasts is what we do with our corn once we've procured it. Lacking a proper grill and being too much of a weenie to try smoking indoors (but I'm working on it), I've discovered the next best thing: roasting corn off the cob. It's easy, it's fast, it's versatile, and best of all, it comes with easy clean up.

Simply cut all of the kernels off the cob into a large bowl with a paring knife (it's the least messy way to do this). Toss the corn kernels with a little extra virgin olive oil and the seasonings of your choice (I like salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne and cumin), and spread out onto a foil-lined baking sheet. Pop the whole thing into a 350 degree oven and roast for 15-20 minutes until golden brown and charred on the ends. That's it. Use it in pasta dishes (see one pasta salad example here), as a stand alone side-dish, or my favorite, as the base for a soup. Because you've already seasoned your corn, all that's left to do is blend it with chicken or vegetable stock. If you know you'll be making soup ahead of time, throw an onion and a few garlic cloves into the oven with the corn for extra flavor. Top with a few reserved corn kernels, a spoonful of sour cream, and a sprinkle of your favorite fresh herb. A little lime on the side caps off a perfectly light and sweet late summer dinner. 

Roasted Corn Soup 

6 corn cobs, husked, kernels removed and reserved
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
3 garlic cloves (skins left on)
1½ Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
¼ tsp ground cumin
pinch of cayenne pepper
3-4 cups low sodium chicken or vegetable stock
salt
pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Place corn kernels, olive oil, onion, garlic, olive oil, cumin and cayenne in a large bowl and toss to combine. Spread mixture out onto a foil lined baking sheet or roasting pan (this will make clean-up easier) and bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until kernels are slightly browned on the edges.

2. Reserve ½ cup worth of the roasted corn for garnish and place the rest of the roasted mixture into a blender (reserve the garlic), or if using a hand blender, add the mixture to a pot. Squeeze the garlic out of its skin and into the mixture and discard papery skin.

3. Add enough stock to the mixture to cover, then blend to combine. Continue adding stock until your desired consistency is reached. Strain into a pot and reheat, or serve cold, topped with the reserved corn, sour cream, and cilantro. Enjoy!

-Laura

God Bless New Jersey

That's right, I said it. God bless New Jersey. For many—myself included—the myth of New Jersey has long meant visions of a robust, mafia-driven economy, epic tales of partying at the shore, and questions about the curious odor that seems to permanently hang over the city of Newark. But as it turns out, they don't call New Jersey the Garden State for nothing. New Jersey produces some of the country's best fruits and vegetables, including outstanding tomatoes, super delicious, deep red strawberries, and without question, the best sweet corn in the United States (sorry, Iowa).

For us New York City dwellers, the farms of New Jersey are actually closer than most of those in our home state, and have the distinct advantage of being further south, meaning that they're always the first to have whatever is in season. Few other farms advertise their state of origin as prominently as those from New Jersey do, because savvy farmers market shoppers know that the produce from New Jersey is where the best flavors can be found. Lately I've been stocking up on Jersey corn, devilishly sweet, amber-hued sungold tomatoes, and all manner of summer squash.

With ingredients so delicious, I try really hard to do as little to them as possible. The pasta salad pictured above could just as easily be a hot pasta dish, but I love the idea of a refreshing pasta salad where the corn is nice and charred, but the tomatoes are still plump and juicy. A handful of julienned herbs from my tiny balcony herb garden (sorry, New Jersey) enhance the freshness of the dish and add an unbelievable fragrance. I very much enjoyed my plateful of New Jersey ingredients, and you will to. So the next time you're passing through the Garden State, don't snub your nose. Unless, of course, you're anywhere near Newark.

Penne with Sungold Tomatoes and Charred Corn

1 lb penne pasta (I used whole wheat)

1 pint sungold tomatoes, halved

3 ears of corn, husked, kernels cut off the cob
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp smoked paprika

5 basil leaves, julienned

5 mint leaves, julienned

1/2 cup smoked cheddar (or your favorite smoked cheese), cubed

1 garlic clove, finely minced or grated

Extra virgin olive oil

Red wine vinegar

Salt

Pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Toss the corn with 2 teaspoons of olive oil, cumin, paprika, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread kernels out evenly on a baking tray and place in the oven. Roast until kernels are browned and slightly crispy, 15-20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season water generously with salt and add the penne. Cook until al dente, then drain and remove to a bowl. 

3. Toss cooked penne with 1 teaspoon of olive oil to keep from sticking together. Add tomatoes, corn, cheese, garlic and herbs to the penne and toss to combine. Add 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine and serve warm or slightly chilled. Enjoy!

-Laura   

A Spoonful of Spring

Spring may be one of my favorite seasons, culinarily speaking, if only because it means that "the race is on." While summer heralds the arrival of a cornucopia of produce so delicious that it barely requires cooking, and fall has it's tasty treats including apples, pears and all manner of gourds, spring has something that no other season does: a very limited growing season for each and every product. Spring's bounty comes and goes in extremely short waves (not unlike the weather of the season itself), usually starting out with asparagus and artichokes in the first few weeks of the season, then transitioning into ramps, spring garlic and all sorts of allium family members, followed by my personal favorite spring fare, beans and legumes. Fresh peas, sugar snap peas, fava beans and garbanzo beans tend to have the shortest presence at the market, available for about two weeks before leaving me wanting sooooo much more.

And so, when they finally make their appearance, I do all that I can to elbow my way into the farmers market tents and fill my bag with whatever I can get my greedy little hands on. Usually I venture towards the fava beans, which are shockingly elusive and tend to be the first thing to go, if they show up at all. The English peas, or shelling peas, foe of many a child, are usually what I look for next. If you've never had fresh peas straight from the pod, I highly encourage you to seek them out. They have a firmness that simply can't be found in frozen (and certainly not canned) peas, and a natural sweetness befitting the season, with a tiny hint of that earthiness found in other spring veggies. They cook super quickly, and in my mind, barely need more than to be blanched for 2-3 minutes.

While I'd love to serve my peas with a simple a swig of olive oil, a touch of mint and a hint of ham, I share my table with a green pea-averse partner, and that means a little more doctoring is required. 

So, I basically made the aforementioned dish and used it as a stuffing for a wonderful (and, if I do say so myself) really beautiful tortellini. Served in a light vegetable broth with a topping of watercress salad, these little pockets of spring would fool anyone into eating their veggies. And with a little help from the grocery store, I managed to make the ravioli in less than 30 minutes (if you don't already have wonton wrappers in your refrigerator, you definitely should—you can even keep them in the freezer until you need them). See below for the recipe, followed by a mini-tutorial on a tortellini folding technique that's super easy to master. And remember, you can make extra tortellini and keep them in the freezer for an even quicker weeknight meal. Just place them on a sheet tray until frozen, then pop them into a zip-top baggy or Tupperware and you're good to go! 

Spring Pea and Prosciutto Tortellini

16-20 wonton skins

1/2 cup shelled English Peas

3 Tbsp finely diced or 3 slices thinly sliced prosciutto

1 1/2 tsp fresh mint, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp ricotta cheese

salt

pepper

1. Place a large pot of salted water over high heat and bring to a rolling boil. Add peas and cook for 2-3 minutes until just cooked through and bright green. Remove to a bowl using a mesh strainer, and keep the water boiling (you will use it for the tortellini later).

2. Add prosciutto, mint and ricotta to the peas and stir to combine. Taste for salt and pepper, season accordingly, then mash the mixture lightly with a fork. Fill each wonton skin with a teaspoon of filling and fold closed (see illustrated folding technique below). Add to the boiling water and cook about 2 minutes until ravioli are al dente. Serve in broth or tossed with melted butter and topped with grated parmesan. Enjoy!  

How to Fold Tortellini and Wontons

1. Place a teaspoon of filling onto the center of your wonton or ravioli skin.

2. Using a brush or your finger, wet the top and two sides of the wrapper with water.

3. Fold bottom edge over the top of the filling.

4. Seal edges by pressing down on all sides, carefully removing any air from the filling.

5. Fold the top sealed edge back slightly over the filling.

6. Pull the two corners opposite the folded top around towards each other.

7. Wet the corners so they stick.

8. Pinch corners together.

9. Presto! Repeat.

-Laura